Aviation Roadtrip
Prose & Photography: Robert Griffiths
There's no doubt about it, 2020 has been a pretty big low point for the world, let alone the aviation sector/hobby. With a lack of air shows at the height of a "normal" season, people have been a bit stuck on what to do to get their aviation fix. Even once-busy civil airports seem to have receded to levels unseen for half a century, with even Heathrow seeing take offs and landings resorting to a single runway and minutes apart.
With two air shows being offered mid to late september I decided to bite the bullet and go for them. First off was the Duxford Battle of Britain, now spread over 3 days with an evening proms-type show on a Friday evening. My initial plan was to bridge the gap between the two shows with a little road trip that would put me within reach of a number of bases to get my fix of fast jet action for the year, with RAF Scampton, Waddington, Coningsby and Marham, for Royal Air Force activity and RAF Lakenheath and RAF Mildenhall for my fix of USAF aviation, all within reach. My starter would be another lucky opportunity to witness some beach landings at Pembrey, this time with the enormous Airbus A400M Atlas of the Royal Air Force doing trials before handing over to a squadron. Unfortunately, Duxford would later be cancelled, but thankfully, Headcorn was still a go.
I’ve always believed that sometimes the best photos take the most work. Recently, I have tended to shy away from airshows and start pressing for some unique, different perspectives and environs than those at the usual airshows I frequent. Pembrey is one such effort, as merely driving there isn’t the end of the journey, with a 5km (3.10 miles to our American friends) hike across sand dunes and across a long sandy beach. My friend Tom Fraser and I decided to go catch this behemoth on a sunny September day.
With an hour's walk finished, we arrived at the makeshift beach runway. At this point I recognised a non-Welsh accent and saw Steven Comber who had also come to see this spectacle; a sign of good things to come. In the distance, the angled-shape of our quarry came into view off the beach; ZM416 callsign COMET452. After a few circles of the area, she descended and approached, kissing the sand before the throttles were opened again and up she went. A few more touch and go’s and finally they approached for a landing.
The sand kicked up when she lands is something to behold, literally blocking out everything behind it for a few seconds. She taxied to the end, turned around, taxied back to the other end to take off into the wind, and before we knew it she was already in the air before reaching us. This would go on for the next few hours as the crew worked landings and touch and gos. On her final take off she didn't turn but goes wheels up, picks up speed, and into the distance her strobes faded. Now all that was left was the same arduous journey back the way we came, elated but thoroughly exhausted.
Due to the loss of one show, I decided to use the time to visit yet another base. RAF Fairford had recently had a deployment from the 5th Bomb Group, 23rd Bomb Squadron “Bomber Barons” from Minot Air Base, for a long deployment. It would be an early start again, but nothing any of us aren't used to in this hobby. What I didn't expect was the lack of activity at the airbase, with no movement or flights happening. I guess that's just the way things fly in this hobby, sometimes you strike rich other times you pull a blank. Onwards to my hotel with nothing to show for it before a night shoot the next day.
Saturday was to involve a night shoot with the company Threshold Aero Group that provides access to museums, airfields and other venues for aviation photoshoots to regular photographers. The venue was White Waltham aerodrome, originally RAF Kenley in Berkshire, with a number of aircraft for the night shoot. Originally, I had thought it would fill a day between the two Duxford show days and would give me an opportunity to shoot another Tornado airframe, this time in Op Granby (Desert Storm) colour scheme. Apart from masking up and being a bit more conscious of the distance between us, the photoshoot didn’t feel any different to normal. The regular safety brief was given by the group to ensure safety and to remind us that we are all there to enjoy and get fantastic photos of the night and that they had a surprise for us...
The Hurricane we all saw take off would return for what would become a spectacular night engine run that none of us had expected! While waiting for the light to fade, we mingled about the various airframes; from the Tornado, Alouette III, ME-108 Taifun, Challenger 600 from the Kingsmen Movie and also enjoying the amazing food put on by the group based at White Waltham. When it was announced that the engine run for Hurricane R4118 would commence in 10 minutes, I eagerly found a spot, and I couldn’t believe my eyes; my favourite World War II fighter in the flesh - and I would get to see it up close.
The pilot mentioned he would try to get some flames on the start up, and boy, did he not disappoint us. Once all was still and quiet, he turned the prop over, starting to turn before a light flame emerged from the exhaust tips, a crack of the engine and the Merlin came to life, the silence shattered by the 1030HP engine that just brings chills to avgeeks everywhere. We were soon greeted by an open throttle, nav lights and landing lights of various degrees before our time was up and she spun to a halt, the ticking of hot metal against the cooling night the only sounds remaining. My main aim of the night was the Tornado, so I spent most of the night after the engine run at the Tonka for that very reason. Satisfied I had accomplished what I had hoped for (and more, thanks to the Hurricane and Threshold Aero!) I headed back to the hotel.
Sunday was a bit of a filler day but with word that the NHS Spitfire would be flying at Duxford, i made a beeline for the museum with the hope of catching this. I caught up with Jack McBride, the gentleman who works at the Aircraft Restoration Company with Aerial Collective, but who is also the creator of the exceptional work of art that is Wings Magazine (something I would highly recommend you look for as the work is superb!). Little did I expect to be given a close walk around the NHS Spitfire, affectionately known as ‘L’.
I would also be in the enviable position right next to the ARCo hangar for John Romain’s ever spectacular and kinetic display as he expertly flew the Spit around the sky over Duxford. After several incredible passes over us, the display was over and John taxied back in before shutting down. He then spoke to the small crowd that had gathered near the fence, a testament to just how well loved the aircraft is and how well John displays her. I walked the Duxford grounds for a bit, exploring the various hangars before resting up with a book (Geoffrey Wellum’s First Light) to kill some time before the next display in a couple of hours. Again, Romain expertly flew the Spit around the skies of Duxford before a crowd of people at the museum. Back at the hangar, it was great to see her in the evening light before saying fond farewells to Jack and retiring before a week of aviation.
Monday wasn’t planned out, however, from a friend I learned that the wind favoured a different direction at RAF Lakenheath which meant takeoffs towards the viewing area. With this in mind, I departed at 0430 to ensure I got there in time for the first wave. Set up on the Forest Entry near the end of 06, it was just a waiting game, hoping that the wind remained in its current direction. With confirmation from our scanners, the first launches became imminent. An excited shout pulled everyone's attention down the runway… and sure enough the unmistakable twin fins of an F-15 Eagle appeared over one of the hangars before racing into view, full burners and a bank to the right that gave us all a side-on shot.
The airframes varied in their configurations, from clean to external tanks, pods and missiles. These are the ‘Reapers’, the 493rd Squadron of the 48th Fighter Wing and the air superiority fighter squadron based here at RAF Lakenheath, and what better day for them to fly out their Heritage jet? The morning launch also consisted of the 494th Panthers, jetting off in their F-15E Strike Eagles, racked up with inert bombs ready for some range/JTAC practice at one of the local ranges. It was then a waiting game for them to return back to Lakenheath before the afternoons launch with F-16s from the 510th FS ‘Buzzards’ based at Aviano AFB in Italy.
Tuesday - and a slight change of scenery, as I headed north into the RAF’s historic Bomber country, Lincolnshire, for RAF Coningsby and the Typhoon. Another early start and drive with phenomenal scenery, and unless you know the history you wouldn't believe this area was teeming with bomber bases: it’s so scenic. For this, I needed a local guide and a good friend by the name of Sean Strange. He’s not only a spectacularly talented photographer and videographer but a great guy I met on my air to air the year previously.
Set up near one of the taxiways, we hoped to get a good look at the Typhoons as they passed by to the runway. All was quiet until we heard the telltale sound of an engine start up, and shortly after, in the serene morning light and haze, the shape of a Typhoon. The first two-ship accelerated down the runway one after the other lifting off into the sky which was showing off its blues. With a few more Typhoons coming down the taxiway and lifting off into the morning's Lincolnshire skies, we decided to switch positions in the worsening light. The switch put us toward the end of the runway with a direct line of sight down one taxiway and across the runway threshold on the other side, making for great view points and head on shots.
With the return of most morning sorties it was time for lunch, visiting the Blue Bell Inn, a frequent of RAF Coningsby aircrew where you can see the ceiling signed from as far back as World War II. After a quick bite it was time to head to the end of the runway for a different perspective. Although the take-offs were high, the landings were a bit more successful for photography including a chute landing (never seen a chute on a Typhoon before!) and Jim Peterson (the 2019 Typhoon display pilot) taxiing past. Another move after to another position for some landing shots in the afternoon sun and slightly better lighting, and another couple of hours watching the afternoon sorties return to RAF Coningsby before I returned to the hotel.
Wednesday was another early start, and the weather… well, let's just say it didn’t fill Sean and I with confidence it would clear. Arriving at RAF Lakenheath for a day of F-15s and F-16s we hoped to catch, we sat in our cars for the better part of an hour watching the driving rain against our windscreens, praying to the aviation gods that the weather might lift enough for us to use our cameras. As if heeded by our prayers, the rain calmed down and the overcast became brighter. I decided a bit of breakfast was in order, but as I walked out of the car park, the faint sound of starting engines caused me to do a 180.
Sean and I grabbed our gear, taking a brisk walk to set up where we wanted. It seemed the weather prevented a lot of people turning up with only a handful being around this early. The first of the 493rd’s F-15s came into view, stopping at the armourers for a final check before arriving at last chance, awaiting the launch. Even better, another chance for me to shoot the 493rd’s Heritage Jet in the rain.
With their launch over, it was a short wait for the 494th to bring their Strike Eagles forward to launch, and boy, do they sound deeper than the Reaper C models. Soon, it was all quiet at Lakenheath, the early morning noise gone, along with most of the Lakenheath residents, as we awaited their return. Around 1130am the first wave started to return, breaking over the top into the landing pattern to touch down. At this point we were pondering if the F-16s would start showing up, and as if they heard us, we started to hear a slightly quieter engine start, distinctly different from the F-15s of this morning.
Taxiing to the same armourers position for a last check they too followed the F-15 procedure of Last Chance stop while the others were also checked out before they started lining up and launching in single ship take offs. During this time the second wave of F-15s was also proceeding to the armourers and last chance, before also launching off into the ever-brightening sky, the weather gods evidently smiling on us.
Sean and I separated, with him having a rather long journey to get home, and I stayed for the returns, considering the night sortie, however, at this point the weather was beginning to change, with wind increasing and a return of storm clouds. Remembering ‘Discretion is the better part of Valor’ I decided to call it a day and return to the hotel, musing as to whether I would return tomorrow later in the day in the hope of seeing some Osprey action at RAF Mildenhall.
Thursday was a far more relaxed morning, with a late start and again heading to Lakenheath for some more fast jet action. I decided on a slightly different perspective this time and headed to the end of the runway for take offs and landings overhead. Similar to the previous day, the morning waves had gone and everyone awaited their return. It seemed the weather was starting to turn with a lot of overcast with the odd patch of blue passing by as the clouds marched past on their ever moving cycle.
It was then just a wait for the eagles to return to their nest (let’s be honest, the hobby is all about patience and waiting isn’t it?). Suddenly, there was a flash of blue low level over the central line down the runway as it pulled away; the shape of a Challenger 600. Curiosity got the better of me and a quick google search showed it belonged to the FAA, and whilst listening to the airband receiver (scanner) determined that they were checking/configuring the Instrument Landing System (ILS) at both Lakenheath and Mildenhall. The morning sorties returned afterwards, breaking into the pattern, banking into finals and straight for me.
Next up was witnessing the F-16s taxi out across the runway before lighting up and launching into the sky. They were followed by more Panthers. Once the remaining aircraft had departed, I strolled back to the car to get ready to head to RAF Mildenhall in the hopes of some Osprey action. I didn't have to wait long. From John’s field I could see the navigation lights on one Osprey flashing in the ever failing light. The blades began to turn, picking up its rhythm into a steady thrum, ready to take the 6th Special Operations Squadron (SOS) into the evening sky.
A few circuits and off into the distance she disappeared, but she wasn't the only lights against the darkened sky. Towards the far side of the runway, the shape of two MC-130s of the 67th SOS appeared, the Night Owls, landing one after another. We had another couple of passes by the Osprey before again an interruption, and boy was it welcome. The enormous shape of a Lockheed C-5M Galaxy appeared, lumbered onto the runway and came to a stop in front of us before pulling off on the taxiway. As the Osprey approached, a bright light appeared under her nose, telling us that that was it for the night. With near blackout conditions, it was time to pack up and head home to the hotel. Tomorrow would be a drive to Kent to reposition ready for the show on Saturday.
Saturday emerged overcast, blowy, and cold, a stark contrast to a few days earlier and to any airshow I have ever participated in. There was hope with a slight brightening once we arrived, but that soon disappeared as the cloud base dropped, the wind picked up, so we upped our collars and battened down for it to pass. Unfortunately, the high winds at RAF Coningsby meant that the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight’s Lancaster and Spitfires would be unable to attend. It would also mean curtailing several of the biplanes earmarked for display. As the rain subsided for a short period and some calm came over the wind, a three-ship in the distance was spotted. With a run and break down the runway centreline we were greeted by the sounds of 3 unmistakeable Merlin engines; a Supermarine Spitfire MKIa, a Hawker Hurricane and a single Hispano Buchon in its Battle of Britain Luftwaffe livery.
First up was Mike Pickin in his CAP 232, performing precision aerobatics in blustery conditions. The second display was from the Stampe Display Team in four Stampe SV4 aircraft. I take my hat off to this team, as the weather was simply atrocious with low clouds, rain, and blustery conditions, but the formations were meticulously maintained, despite the buffeting. At the split off to land, one remained airbourne to commence solo aerobatics, and again wow’d the crowd in the conditions.
Next up were the two resident Aero Legends C-47’s in a duo display, one I was immensely looking forward to, and very surprised by just how agile these lumbering giants were expertly handled. The two C-47s were Pegasus (a new addition) and the venerable ‘Drag Em Oot’ (my air to air steed from June 2019), and both were used to drop hundreds of paratroopers in the 2019 commemorations in Normandy. After a very dynamic display and a break to land downwind, the next display aircraft cracked into life.
The distinct noise of a Merlin starting on the flightline caught one's attention, it was the Buchon, piloted by the legendary John Romain once again. Soon it was racing back across the airfield simulating an attack, and it wasn’t long before the resident hero Spitfire hurtled down the runway to do battle with the Hun, chasing the Buchon all over Kent airspace, rolling one way and the next keeping everyone on their toes. A twin-seat Spitfire leapt into the air to join her single-seat brethren. Whilst watching all this, Sean and I waited with bated breath as the early marks, and heroes of the Battle of Britain started to roll. Supermarine Spitfire MKIa N3200, a Dunkirk resurrection, and Hawker Hurricane MKI R4118 (the Hurricane I had a night shoot with a week earlier) left the ground one by one, as the Buchon and Spitfire MKIX tangled it overhead.
Suddenly, a cheer went up from the crowd as white smoke (just visible against the overcast) streamed from the Buchon, the Hun had been slain once again. After this, the three Spitfires, Hurricane and Buchon formed up for a unique formation for a number of passes before peeling off to land one at a time. Both the MKIX and TMKIX broke away to do their own joint display flown by legendary pilots, Parky and Charlie Brown.
The unmistakable purr of a Havard’s engine (Texan for the US), ticked over on warm up before slowly advancing to the end of the runway. They proceeded with a joint dual display showing the great handling characteristics of the aircraft and the howl of that engine that is so spine tingling. After their landing, a helpful steward gave us a heads up that a full formation of Dakotas, Havards and two Spitfires would do a mass formation pass in roughly 30 minutes. This gave us enough time to quickly get around the stalls before heading back to our seat for the finale. Before we knew it, it was all over, a quiet coming over the little grass aerodrome save for the breeze… and sun. Typical of British air shows for the sun to show up after the flying finishes, but ce la vie.
Unfortunately the weather got the best of us on our final day, hoping to have a longer trip visiting Battle of Britain sites. We did manage the Battle of Britain Memorial at Capel Le Ferne, a memorial centre that is also an educational one. Inside, state of the art touchscreens with a plethora of information adorn walls and tables. It even has a basic flight sim that you can sit in a mock Hurricane cockpit to have a go on a typical scramble from 1940. Of course, Sean and I made our attempt at it.
With the weather being reprehensible we decided a quick out photo op was needed before calling it quits and our long journey home. In true typical British weather style, an hour into my drive home I was met with bright blue skies and a few puffy white clouds, the weather we had hoped for at the show and memorial. That’s just the way it is in this hobby, taking a gamble against the weather and hoping you come out the winner.
So there it is, I’ve finally visited bases I’ve never been to before or not spent a lot of time at, and for that I am grateful. Yes, the "Virus that shall not be Named" has curtailed a lot in aviation, but it’s also afforded many opportunities, ones that may not have arisen had we not been backed into a corner. As humans, we learn to adapt, and one thing I will be sure to say in future is: make the opportunities, because you just don’t know when they’ll disappear.
